Dining Out: Zuma in One Dalton Tower

Zuma, a posh Japanese restaurant in Boston’s newest skyscraper, is a throwback to the luxury of the 2000s. But is that really such a bad thing?

When Zuma, a swank Japanese izakaya with outposts in 14 international cities, opened inside the Back Bay’s new Four Seasons One Dalton tower in May, it arrived with expectations as high as its jet-setter-crowd price points. It also raised a few eyebrows: Would a clubby enclave for the elite fly in Boston, with its small-town feel and historical aversion to ostentation?